Hanoi ...

If you arrive at Hanoi airport you will most likely want to catch a taxi into Hanoi city (unless you have other transport arranged). The ride takes about an hour, so empty your bladder first (take it from me). The taxi stand is just outside the terminal. It's pretty obvious. Check the board for the set taxi fare (prices are listed in $US and Vietnamese Dong). Don't let the driver overcharge you.

The driver will almost certainly try to take you to a hotel where he gets commission. Come prepared with the name and address of your hotel written down on a piece of paper and simply decline any other hotel. You don't have to get angry, just be strong. The driver will try to convince you that the hotel he is trying to dump you at is the right hotel, even if the name is completely different. Be aware that there are some copy-cat hotels in Hanoi using the same names as popular hotels. Try and find a photo of the hotel from the outside so you know what it looks like. Hotels in Hanoi are also weird about changing their names, so make sure you have the most current information.

If you don't have a hotel in mind, there are a million options in Hanoi. Find a location on your guidebook map and ask your taxi driver to drop you off. As a tourist, you will most likely want to stay in the Old Town of Hanoi. You can walk around and take a look at different hotel options. Ask to see the room before you agree to stay.

Walking the streets you'll quickly encounter the thrill of crossing a road in a city without traffic lights. Be a little cautious (don't step infront of a bus), but mostly just go for it. You'll get used to it quickly. Every time you cross the street it's like taking a leap of faith. I had a couple of close calls, but came out without a scratch.

While walking around, stop and ask some other tourists where they are staying and if they like their hotel. Don't be afraid to follow someone trying to hawk their hotel off the street. Competition is fierce in Hanoi and this is one way that hotels find guests. We reluctantly followed one persistent lad and were pleasantly surprised. We stayed at Ocean Stars II in the heart of the old town. It was comfortable and the manager was a very decent man. There were bathrooms in every room, but the walls were thin and hotel guests tend to wake up early in Hanoi for the many day trips that operate from the area.

If you're only in Hanoi for a short time, you'll probably be one of the early risers. If you're staying for a while, you'll probably be one of the all-night partiers in which case you'll probably be getting back to your hotel after the other guests have already left. There are quite a few buzzing night spots which don't start buzzing until after 10pm.

You can take day trips and overnight trips from Hanoi to a variety of locations, including the beautiful (but tourist-filled) Halong Bay. Your hotel and many tourist operators in Hanoi can organise trips for you. Again, ask other tourists if they have been on any tours and see if they have any advice they can share. If you're feeling brave you can do it yourself, which is easier than it might initially seem.

If you want to catch a public bus out of Hanoi, make sure you know which bus station to go to. Ask someone (your hotel manager if he's a nice guy) how much you should expect to pay for a taxi to the station. Catching a taxi out of the Old Town is an experience. There are only a few reputable taxi companies, and finding one is like searching for a needle in a haystack. If you're unsure, set a reasonable fare for your ride before you get in the taxi and write it down so the driver can see (because 15,000 Dong sounds like 50,000). If the driver disagrees, walk away. A driver will very quickly agree to the fare (you'll be surrounded by taxi drivers all vying for your business). Don't get angry, there's no need.

When you reach the station, find the ticket counter with the name of your destination on it. If there is no one at the counter, you will be approached directly by bus operators. Check that they are offering the same fare that you expect to pay, but don't be worried when you find yourself herded onto a minivan or something else you weren't expecting. If the destination and ticket price are clearly displayed on the bus, everything is as it should be so relax and try to enjoy the ride.

Buses pull up (not really stop) along highways and pick up passengers. They shout the destination out the door as they approach pedestrians standing on the roadside. Once you've seen this a few times, you might feel confident to catch a ride on a bus in the same way. Bus drivers compete for passengers along the highway so don't be surprised by how crazy your bus driver is as he swerves across 4 lanes to overtake an oncoming truck.

I highly recommend taking a side trip to Ninh Binh from Hanoi. This is a quiet city about 2 hours south of Hanoi, surrounded by the most beautiful landscape and populated by friendly children. 2 days in Ninh Binh is good, but some people go there for just 1 day. Don't take organised tours from Hanoi to Ninh Binh, you will miss out on a glorious chance to rent a bicycle or a motorbike and get a little bit lost in the dreamscape of Ninh Binh.